Deosai National Park: A Complete Guide to the Land of Giants

The locals call it Deosai, the Land of Giants, and once you are up there it makes sense. This is a vast, treeless plateau between Skardu and Astore that averages 4,114 metres and rolls on for around 3,000 square kilometres. For most of the year it is buried in snow. Then for a few short summer months it comes alive, the rivers fill, the meadows turn into wildflower carpets, and the brown bears come out. There is nowhere else like it in Pakistan. Here is how to visit without getting caught out.

Where it is, and why it matters

Deosai sits on the boundary of Gilgit-Baltistan between Skardu and the Astore valley. At an average of 4,114 m it is the second-highest plateau on earth after Tibet's Changtang, and it is a protected national park guarding an alpine ecosystem you will not find anywhere else, a rolling green world of meadow, marsh and stream ringed by snow peaks.

The brown bears

Deosai is one of the last homes of the Himalayan brown bear, with maybe 40 to 50 of them left. The park was actually created to save them. July and August are your best months for a sighting, when the bears are active and the plateau is at its liveliest. Keep your distance, never feed anything, and treat a sighting as the privilege it is. You might also spot ibex, red foxes, marmots and golden eagles.

Sheosar Lake

On the western edge sits Sheosar Lake, one of the highest lakes in the world at around 4,142 m. It is deep blue, ringed by snow peaks and, in summer, wildflowers. It is the classic Deosai photo and the best place to camp. That dawn stillness, with nobody around, is the whole reason to stay the night.

When to go

Deosai only opens when the snow melts, so roughly late June to mid-October. The sweet spot is July and August: wildflowers at their peak, bears most active, streams running full. Even in high summer the nights are freezing at this altitude, and the weather can flip in minutes, so come ready for all four seasons in one day.

How to get there

• From Skardu (about 2 hours to the plateau). A rough unpaved 4x4 road climbs up to the Bara Pani entrance, and from there it is another 30 to 45 minutes across the plateau to Sheosar Lake. This is the most common way in.
• From Astore (4 to 5 hours, easier road). The route through the pretty Chilam valley is more comfortable, and lots of people combine it with a Fairy Meadows and Nanga Parbat trip.

A lot of travellers cross the whole plateau as an epic link between Skardu and the Astore side. It is a full day, and one you will not forget.

Camping and staying

There are no hotels on Deosai. Your options are seasonal tented camps near Bara Pani and Sheosar Lake, which are basic and summer-only, or your own gear with a local operator. Most people day-trip by 4x4 from Skardu, but staying overnight rewards you with sunrise, a sky full of stars, and the best odds of seeing bears at dawn.

The practical stuff

You need a proper 4x4 and an experienced driver, no exceptions. The tracks ford rivers and there is no help if you get stuck. There is no fuel, no signal, no shops and no ATMs anywhere on the plateau, so arrive fully self-sufficient with food, water and a full tank. And respect the park: stick to the tracks, carry out every bit of rubbish, and give the wildlife space.

Altitude and safety

At over 4,100 m, altitude is the main thing to watch. Headaches and breathlessness are common, so spend a night or two in Skardu (2,230 m) first, drink plenty of water, and head down if it gets worse. The weather is volatile, and hypothermia is a real risk even in July if you get caught out unprepared. Go by day, and do not even think about attempting Deosai in a normal car.

What to pack

Full warm layers and a down jacket, waterproof shell and trousers, gloves and a warm hat (yes, in summer), sturdy shoes, strong sunblock and sunglasses for the fierce UV, lots of water, food, a power bank, and cash.

Quick answers

When is Deosai open? Late June to mid-October, best in July and August.

Will I see a brown bear? Maybe. There are around 40 to 50, and July and August give you the best odds. Keep your distance.

Do I need a 4x4? Absolutely. A normal car will not make it.

Is there a permit or fee? No permit, though a small park entry fee may apply at the gate.

Can you do it as a day trip? Yes, from Skardu, but camping near Sheosar Lake is far better.

Sort your base first: browse stays and experiences around Skardu or all of Gilgit-Baltistan on Pakistan Locals. Then read our Skardu guide and the Fairy Meadows trek.