Shandur Polo Festival Guide: The Highest Polo Ground on Earth
Pakistan Locals Team
1 August 2026 · 6 min read
At a glance
- Location
- Shandur Pass
- Region
- Khyber Pakhtunkhwa
- Best time
- Early July for the festival; the pass itself is open roughly June to October
- Duration
- 3 to 6 days including travel
- Altitude
- 3,700 m
There is polo, and then there is Shandur. Once a year, on a wind-scoured plateau at 3,700 metres between Chitral and Gilgit, two teams gallop straight at each other on the highest polo ground on earth. There is no real umpire and almost no rules. They call it free-style polo, and it is closer to a cavalry charge than a sport. If you want to see the wildest, loudest, most heart-pounding event in Pakistan, this is it. This guide covers everything: what the game is, when to go, exactly how to get there, where to sleep, and how to stay safe at altitude.
What it actually feels like to be there
Picture this. The sun is fierce but the wind is cold. Thousands of people line a rough field beside a still blue lake. Drums are pounding. A band plays faster and faster. Then the horses thunder past, so close you feel the ground shake, riders swinging their mallets at full gallop, dust everywhere, the crowd screaming. Somebody scores, and half the plateau erupts while the other half groans. Yeh koi normal match nahi hota. It is raw, it is dangerous, and you will not forget it. That feeling is why people travel two hard days to get here.
What is Shandur, and what is free-style polo?
Shandur Top is a flat, marshy plateau that sits right on the boundary of Chitral (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa) and Ghizer (Gilgit-Baltistan). For most of the year it is empty except for a glassy lake and grazing yaks. But every July it hosts the Shandur Polo Festival, where the old rivals of Chitral and Gilgit settle a century-old score on horseback.
Free-style polo is the original mountain version of the game, the way it was played here long before rulebooks arrived. There is no pause after a goal. There are almost no fouls. The ball is in play for two long, brutal halves, and a live band drives the pace. Riders crash shoulder to shoulder. It is fast, physical, and thrilling to watch. This is the real thing, not a tidy city match.
When is the festival?
The festival runs for three days in early July, usually somewhere between the 7th and the 14th, building to the big Chitral versus Gilgit final on the last day. The exact dates shift each year and are announced by the Gilgit-Baltistan and KP tourism departments a few months ahead, so confirm before you book flights. The pass itself is generally open from June to October, but the festival is the only time you get the full show of teams, crowds, and music.
How to get there, both ways
Shandur is remote, and that is half the point. There are two approaches, and both are long, rough, and beautiful. You need a 4x4 and a driver who knows the road. Do not attempt it in a normal car.
- From the Chitral side. First reach Chitral, either by the short PIA flight from Islamabad (limited days, very weather-dependent) or the 10 to 12 hour drive from Islamabad via Dir and the all-year Lowari Tunnel. From Chitral it is a further 6 to 8 hour jeep ride through Booni and Mastuj up to Shandur. This route pairs beautifully with the Kalash valleys.
- From the Gilgit side. From Gilgit it is a 6 to 7 hour drive west through Gupis and the gorgeous Phander and Ghizer valleys. Many people prefer this route because the scenery on the way is so good, and Phander makes a perfect overnight stop.
During the festival, transport gets booked out fast and prices jump. Arrange your jeep well ahead, or take a full package that includes the drive and a tent.
A sample plan
Here is a simple way to do it from either side without rushing:
- Day 1: Travel to your base (Chitral, or Gilgit).
- Day 2: Drive to Mastuj (Chitral side) or Phander (Gilgit side) and sleep there. This breaks the journey and helps you adjust to the height.
- Day 3: Drive up to Shandur in the morning, settle into your tent, watch the afternoon matches.
- Day 4: The big final and the closing celebrations.
- Day 5 to 6: Drive back, with a night on the way.
Where to stay
On the top itself, everyone camps. The tourism authorities and private tour operators pitch tent villages with basic bedding and food stalls for the festival days. It is cold, simple, and very atmospheric, with the lake and a sky full of stars for company. If sleeping at altitude is not for you, base lower down in Mastuj on the Chitral side or Phander on the Gilgit side, and drive up for the matches. Whatever you choose, book early, because Shandur fills right up.
Food, fishing, and the evenings
The festival is more than the matches. Food stalls serve simple hot meals, chai, and snacks, but bring your own water and some snacks too, because supply is limited and prices are high. Evenings bring folk music, Khowar and Shina dance, and local food. There is trout in Shandur Lake for anglers. And honestly, the drive itself, through Mastuj or Phander, is a highlight in its own right. Give yourself a spare day on either side to enjoy the valleys rather than just racing up and back.
Altitude and safety, the honest part
At 3,700 metres, take the altitude seriously. Spend a night lower down, in Mastuj or Phander, before you go to the top. Drink plenty of water, go easy on the first day, and if you get a bad headache, feel sick, or cannot sleep, come down. The weather swings hard here: warm sun by day, near-freezing at night even in July, and the odd sudden storm. The roads are the other real risk, so travel only by daylight with an experienced driver, and never rush a mountain track. None of this should scare you off. It just means you come prepared.
What to pack
A proper down jacket and warm layers for the freezing nights. A waterproof shell. A warm sleeping bag if you are not on a full package. Sturdy shoes. Strong sunblock and sunglasses, because the high-altitude sun burns fast. A power bank, since there is no reliable electricity up top. A basic medical kit with any personal medicine. And plenty of cash, because there are no ATMs anywhere near Shandur.
Shandur pairs perfectly with a wider Chitral trip, and this is a region where you can book real, local experiences right now. See what Chitrali hosts run, from Hindu Kush treks to cultural stays, on the Chitral page, or browse all Chitral trips and treks. New to the region? Read our Chitral guide and the Kalash Valleys guide next.
Written and fact-checked by the Pakistan Locals editorial team, with local hosts and guides who make the trip to Shandur each July. Last updated August 2026. The festival dates and the pass opening shift with the weather, so confirm before you plan around them.
Sources and further reading
Ready to explore Pakistan with local hosts? Browse trips and experiences on Pakistan Locals, and if you live in the area you can list your own experience or stay. Read our Chitral valley travel guide and Phander and Ghizer valley guide next.
Questions people ask
When is the Shandur Polo Festival held?+
Early July each year, when teams from Chitral and Gilgit meet on Shandur Top for the free style polo final.
Where is Shandur and how high is it?+
Shandur Pass sits between Chitral and Gilgit at about 3,700 m, which makes it the highest polo ground on earth.
How do you get to Shandur?+
A rough jeep drive of six to eight hours from Chitral via Mastuj, or six to seven hours from Gilgit via Gupis and Phander. It is 4x4 country only.
Where do you stay at the festival?+
Most visitors camp on Shandur Top during the festival. Bring warm gear, as the nights are cold even in July.
Do you need a permit?+
No permit. Just carry your ID or passport for the checkpoints along the way.
Chitral side or Gilgit side?+
Both work. The Gilgit side via Phander is the prettier drive. The Chitral side pairs well with the Kalash valleys.
Is it family friendly?
Pakistan Locals Team
The Pakistan Locals editorial team writes practical, on-the-ground travel guides to Pakistan, researched and fact-checked in consultation with our network of local hosts and guides.