Shandur Polo Festival Guide: The Highest Polo Ground on Earth

There is polo, and then there is Shandur. Once a year, up on a wind-scoured plateau at 3,700 metres between Chitral and Gilgit, two teams gallop at each other on the highest polo ground on the planet, with no umpire worth the name and almost no rules. They call it free-style polo, and it is closer to a cavalry charge than a sport. If you want to see the wildest, most heart-pounding event in Pakistan, this is it. Here is how to actually get there and do it right.

What is Shandur, and what is free-style polo?

Shandur Top is a flat, marshy plateau straddling the border of Chitral (Khyber Pakhtunkhwa) and Ghizer (Gilgit-Baltistan). For most of the year it is empty except for a glassy lake and grazing yaks. But every July it hosts the Shandur Polo Festival, where the arch-rivals of Chitral and Gilgit settle a century-old score on horseback.

Free-style polo is the original, mountain version of the game, the way it was played here long before rulebooks. There is no pause after a goal, minimal fouls, and the ball is in play almost constantly for two brutal halves. Riders swing full tilt, horses crash shoulder to shoulder, and a live band plays faster and faster as the game heats up. Yeh koi normal match nahi hota. It is loud, dusty, dangerous and completely unforgettable.

When is the festival?

The festival runs for three days in early July, usually somewhere between the 7th and the 14th, building up to the big Chitral versus Gilgit final on the last day. Exact dates shift year to year and are announced by the Gilgit-Baltistan and KP tourism departments a few months ahead, so confirm before you lock in flights. The pass itself is generally open from June to October, but the festival is the only time you get the full spectacle of teams, crowds and music.

How to get there

Shandur is remote, and that is half the point. There are two approaches, and both are long, rough and gorgeous.

• From the Chitral side. First reach Chitral (by the PIA flight from Islamabad, or the 10 to 12 hour drive via the Lowari Tunnel). From Chitral it is a further 6 to 8 hour jeep ride through Booni and Mastuj up to Shandur. Rough but stunning.
• From the Gilgit side. From Gilgit it is a 6 to 7 hour drive west through Gupis and the beautiful Phander and Ghizer valleys. Many people prefer this route because the scenery on the way is so good.

Either way you need a 4x4 and a driver who knows the road. During the festival, transport gets booked out fast, so arrange it well ahead.

Where to stay

On the top itself, everyone camps. The tourism authorities and private tour operators pitch tent villages with basic bedding and food stalls for the festival days. It is cold, simple and very atmospheric, with the lake and the stars for company. If camping at altitude is not for you, base lower down in Mastuj on the Chitral side or Phander on the Gilgit side, and drive up for the matches. Book any of it early, because Shandur fills up.

The Chitral vs Gilgit rivalry

This is not just sport, it is pride. The rivalry between Chitral and Gilgit goes back generations, and the Shandur final is where it plays out in front of thousands. The crowd splits down the middle, the drums go wild, and grown men lose their voices. Even if you do not follow the game, the emotion in the air is something you feel in your chest. Whichever side you camp on, you will end up cheering for someone.

Beyond the polo

The festival is more than the matches. Evenings bring folk music, Khowar and Shina dance, and traditional food. There is trout in Shandur Lake for anglers, and the journey itself, whether through Mastuj or Phander, is a highlight in its own right. Give yourself a spare day or two on either side to enjoy the valleys rather than just racing up and back.

Altitude, weather and safety

At 3,700 m, take the altitude seriously. Spend a night lower down (Mastuj or Phander) before heading to the top, drink plenty of water, and go easy on the first day. The weather swings hard: warm sun by day, near-freezing at night, even in July, with the odd sudden storm. Come with real cold-weather layers. The roads are the other risk, so travel by daylight with an experienced driver, and never rush a mountain track.

What to pack

A proper down jacket and warm layers for the nights, a waterproof shell, a warm sleeping bag if you are not on a full package, sturdy shoes, strong sunblock and sunglasses for the fierce high-altitude sun, a power bank (no reliable electricity up top), and plenty of cash, because there are no ATMs anywhere near Shandur.

Quick answers

When is the Shandur Polo Festival? Three days in early July; confirm the exact dates each year.

Do you need a permit? No permit, just carry your ID or passport for checkpoints.

Chitral side or Gilgit side? Both work. Gilgit via Phander is the prettier drive; Chitral via Mastuj pairs well with the Kalash valleys.

Is it family friendly? Yes, but it is high, cold and basic, so come prepared, especially with kids or older travellers.

Shandur pairs perfectly with a wider Chitral trip. See what local Chitrali hosts run, from Hindu Kush treks to cultural stays, on the Chitral page, or browse all Chitral trips and treks. New to the region? Read our Chitral guide and the Kalash Valleys guide next.